Lampshade Buying Tips

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Lampshade Buying Guide How to Measure Fitters Drops Bulb-Heat Buying Tips Glossary Harps Browse Lampshades
Measuring for a Fabric Shade: Find the right size shade for your lamp. Follow these tips for correct measuring: Shade Dimensions are typically given Top x Bottom x Height on the SLANT. Be sure to measure the slant height and not the vertical height. The taller the lamp, the larger the shade. Most table lamps take a shade with a bottom diameter (B) of 16" or less. Floor lamps take a shade with a bottom diameter (B) of 16" or 18" or larger. Measure the lamp's height from the bottom of the base to just below the socket(s). The basic rule of thumb is that the shade you choose should have a bottom diameter (B) that's approximately equal to this measurement. Dimensions are measured in inches. Return to Top
Choosing the Right Fitter: Does your lamp already have a harp? Perhaps it needs an UNO fitter, or a clip-on fitting? Check your existing lamp against the diagram and descriptions below to determine what type of fitter you need: Harp/Spider Fitters - If your lamp has a harp you will need a shade with a spider fitter. The spider fitter sits on top of the harp and is secured by a finial. For best fit you can install a different sized harp, which are universal for most lamps and can be easily changed. Harps typically vary from 7” to 12” and they affect the vertical position of your lampshade. Click to browse our selection of lamp harps. If you do not have a harp but wish to use a shade with a spider fitter you must also purchase a harp. Harps are made in different sizes, which affects the vertical position of the lampshade. UNO Fitters - If your lamp requires an uno fitter you must purchase a lamp shade that has an UNO fitter. The UNO fitter is built-in to the lampshade. There are two types of UNO fitters: Slip-UNO fitters - sit on the socket and are held in place by the bulb. Threaded-UNO fitters - are typically for down-bridge lamps and feature a screw thread for installation above the downward-facing bulb. Clip-on Fitters - Clip-on lamp shades are typically for chandeliers. The clip fitter is built into the lamp shade and clips over a standard medium or candelabra bulb. Reflector Bowl Spider Fitters - If your lamp has a reflector bowl inside the shade, a reflector spider fitter may be needed to secure its position. These fitters feature grooves in the spider arms for the secure positioning of reflector bowl. Reflector bowls are not sold as part of the lamp shade - they are usually shipped with the lamp base.
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Choosing the Right Drop:

Shades with a spider-type or UNO-type fitter usually have some distance between the top edge of the shade (where the fitter attaches to the shade) down to where the fitter attaches to the lamp base or harp. This makes the fitting less visible when viewing the lamp from the side but does raise the position of the shade by the drop distance.

Shades with spider-type fitters typically feature a 1/2 to 1 inch drop.
Shades with a Slip-UNO fitter have several inches of drop which varies per-shade, since the fitter has to drop down to below the bulb.
Threaded-UNO fitter shades typically feature a drop of 1 to 2 inches so as to conceal electrical attachments above the shade.
The drop is measured in inches.

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Considering Bulb Heat:

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Light bulbs produce heat, no matter their wattage. It is important to ensure that your shade is not too close to the bulb and that there is proper ventilation. Consider the following factors in selecting a compatible shade:

Light bulbs produce more heat the longer they are active at one time
Multiple light bulbs produce more heat than single bulbs
The closer the shade surface is to the light bulb surface the warmer it will become
The higher the wattage of the light bulb the more heat it will produce
Incandescent bulbs are hotter than most Fluorescent bulbs, and Halogen bulbs are usually even hotter
When the light bulb is switched on, it radiates heat in all directions
Heat radiating from the light bulb heats the air around the bulb
The heated air must have somewhere to escape. Since warm air rises, the heated air moves upward and out of the top of the lampshade
If the sides of the lamp shade are sloped they will interfere with the upward flow of warm air. The heated air will more readily collide with the shade surface and the shade itself will start to heat up through convection.
The shade will also heat up from the radiant heat produced by the bulb regardless of the air flow
The shortest distance between the bulb surface and the shade surface can be used to estimate how hot the shade will become
Warm air rises, so the top of the shade will, over time, become warmer than the bottom of the shade
The larger the shade is the greater the likelihood that the bulb will have ample room for ventilation
Smaller shades are likely to be closer to the bulb and require the use of lower wattage bulbs
The longer the lamp is switched on the more heat can accumulate in the shade
There is usually a limit to how much heat the shade will usually accumulate because the movement of air upwards acts to ventilate the shade interior, producing a cooling effect
Most table and floor lamps come with shades designed to be safe for use at the wattages the lamp is designed for. Do not use a higher wattage than is recommended
If you are unsure about a replacement shade, choose a shade close in size and shape to your original shade
Drum and cylinder shades have the best ventilation
Floor and Empire shades have sloped sides and will accumulate heat more than a drum or cylinder shade, especially around the top of the shade
Coolie shades or flatter shades will accumulate heat the worst due in part to a usually narrower top ventilation hole
Usually the narrower the top of the shade is the more restricted the airflow will be
Bell shades in particular cause the sides of the shade to be closer to the light bulb due to their curvature, resulting in hot-spots in the shade nearer to the level of the bulb
Always avoid letting the light bulb touch the shade
If you need to tilt the shade to direct the light, make sure the bulb does not touch the shade and has plenty of room for ventilation - concentrated heat on the shade may cause it to ignite
Most shades are made of materials which are designed to withstand a reasonable amount of heat, up to a point
The longer a shade is heated, the more it will warp and discolor
If using a 40 or 60 Watt incandescent bulb, leave at least 1-2 inches around the bulb as a minimum
If using a 75 or 100 Watt incandescent bulb, leave at least 2-3 inches around the bulb as a minimum
If using a 150 Watt incandescent bulb or higher, leave at least 3-4 inches around the bulb as a minimum
If you are using a compact fluorescent bulb, it will run cooler and requires less space - leave at least 1-2 inches around the bulb
Do not cover the top of your shade with a cloth or other material, especially with hotter bulbs, as it may cause the shade to overheat and the shade or cover may ignite

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Buying Tips - Choosing the Right Shade:

Click here to browse our extensive selection of quality lamp shades including drum shades, cylinder shades, floor shades, empire shades, coolie shades, bell shades, square and rectangular shades, chandelier shades and others in a wide variety of styles and colors

Match the Base - Think Size, Shape, Style, Color. Larger lamp bases require larger shades. Square bases may look better with a square shade. Victorian bases need a Victorian shade, etc. Your goal is to match to “mood” of the base.
Compliment the Base - A shade should make the base look better without competing with it for attention. Decide if the lamp base will be the “star-of-the-show”, or “best-supporting actor”. If your base is really unique, choose a simple shade to draw attention to the special features of the lamp.
Hide the Switch - Your shade should just barely cover the switch. Try different sized harps or add a shade riser to fine-tune your shade fit.
Sizing Rules of Thumb
- Shade height should be about 3/4 the height of the base.
- The bottom of the shade should be wider than the widest part of the base.
- Shade width should approximately equal the height from bottom of base to socket.
Consider the Use - Reading lamps need a wider shade to provide plenty of light.
Consider the Room - What is the color and style of your room? Will the lamp have a starring role or compliment its surroundings?
Consider the Bulb - Be sure you have 3 inches separation from bulb to shade, especially for higher wattage bulbs. Be sure the top opening is wide enough to vent the heat. Compact Fluorescent bulbs are great for most lamps because they burn cooler, but you may need larger harp since CFL's are taller than standard light bulbs.

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Lampshade Glossary of Terms:

Candelabra Shades - Small shades that usually feature a clip-on fitter, candelabra shades are designed for chandeliers.

Drop - Distance from the top of the shade to the center of the fitter.

Drum/Cylinder Shades - Drum and cylinder shades typically feature vertical or near-vertical sides and differ mainly in their proportions. Drum shades tend to be wider and cylinder shades tend to be taller. In some cases the difference between them is hard to distinguish - a tall drum shade may be similar to a short cylinder shade.

Faux Leather - A artificial shade fabric with a texture similar to leather, often accented with real or faux leather stitching.

Finial - An ornamental decoration made of ceramic, metal, stone, crystal, wood, etc. used to securely fasten the lampshade to the harp.

Fitter - The metal structure that attaches the shade to the lamp base. The most common type is the Spider Fitter which resembles a spoked wheel and connects to a harp with a finial. A Clip-On Fitter features metal loops allowing the shade to attach on top of the bulb. Larger clip-on shades are designed to attach directly to a standard Edison bulb, while smaller chandelier shades have smaller loops to fit a candelabra bulb. An Uno Fitter is designed with a larger center opening which fits snugly on the socket. Slip Uno Fitters feature a large drop and rest on the socket of a table lamp. Threaded Uno Fitters actually screw on to the socket so it can hang downward, typically on down-bridge floor lamps.

Flecks/Nubbly texture - A feature of the thread used to make a lamp shade, where sections of the thread are thicker or more frayed than others. When woven into a lamp shade this produces areas that are a different texture or color. This added dimension of texture is usually most visible when the light is shining through the shade. The degree of flecks ranges greatly from subtle to eccentric. Some shades will feature a second thread for the purposes of adding texture and dimension. Silk and Shantung shades often feature natural flecks or nubbly areas.

Floor/Empire/Coolie Shades - Slope-sided shades of varying degrees. Floor shades feature steep sides. Empire shades feature a medium slope and are typically in proportion for table lamps. Coolie shades feature the most gradual slope with a smaller top diameter and wider base, ideal for particular styles of lamps.

Frame - The metal structure of a lamp shade which maintains its shape and extends toward the center of the shade in the form of a fitter. The fitter is a part of the frame and in many cases is the only visible part of the frame. The frame is often outlined covered by a trim. Some lamps ship with a collapsable-frame shade where the vertical struts collapse and can be locked in place upon installation, re-expanding the shade.

Gallery - A vertical/flat band around the top and/or bottom edge of a lamp shade. This can take the form of tassles, beads, crystals, loops, braids, rope, lace or an extension of the main shade. The gallery is usually vertical and sometimes moves freely, but at rest forms a band around the shade, as if a `viewing gallery` or `decorative wall` around the shade. Sometimes a shade will feature a gallery or band around the top of the shade.

Gimp - A form of braid used to accent the edges of a lampshade. The gimp may also be referred to as braiding, rope, cord or other decorative term. Popular gimp styles feature a figure eight pattern.

Hardback - A stiff backing applied to the inner surface of a lamp shade to keep its shape over time. During the creation of a hardback lampshade, the fabric is laminated over a stiff but bendable backing material, typically a plastic such as a styrene. The hard backing helps the shade to keep its form, prevents drooping or warping, and extends the life of the shade. With a hardback shade it often becomes unnecessary to use extra metal framework running between the top and bottom of the shade, since the backing maintains the shape. This removes the shadows or blocks to light caused by the presence of vertical framework showing through the shade.

Harp - A vertical U-Shaped metal support used to attach the shade to the lamp base. Harps are typically 6-12” high. Changing the size of the harp often helps your shade fit better.

Jacquard - A leaf-like scroll pattern that is printed or embossed into a fabric, used to make a lampshade. `Jacquard` is a classic design having been used for many centuries. Jacquard shades feature leafy-scrolling patterns.

Lamp Base - The actual body, typically made of crystal, brass, ceramic, resin, stone, etc. The base is wired with a socket and cord.

Lampshade - Decorative covering, usually fabric, used to diffuse and direct the light from the bulb. A properly chosen shade will enhance the base and bring out its best features without competing with it for attention. (The life of the party can also use it as a hat late on a wild evening.)

Lining - An additional surface applied to the inside of a lamp shade, used to filter or reflect light. A reflective lining such as gold or silver helps to reflect light away from the shade surface and focusses it out of the top and bottom. This keeps the outer appearance of the shade the same color and tone as when the light is off. This is useful for dark or black shades that you want to stay dark-looking even when the lamp is on. It also prevents the shade from absorbing some of the light, increasing overall light output. A reflective lining also hides the appearance of a bright-spot from the light bulb, as seen through the shade. Other types of lining include plastic, linen and other fabrics, each with its own degree of diffusing and reflecting light. Some linings allow some light through while also increasing the output through the top and bottom of the shade.

Piping/Ribbing - Vertical pipes of material running up the outside edge of a lamp shade. Piping is a hollow pipe made of fabric, usually flattened and applied to the shade surface, but sometimes also made from braids or solid tubes. The piping accentuates the shape of the shade particularly in areas that are flat and void of features. A shade with piping typically features several pipes arranged evenly around the shade, or spaced attractively. Piping can conceal joins in the underlying shade surface and can create surface tension to help maintain the shape of a shade over time.

Pleated - Where the shade fabric folds back on itself creating a pleat. There are many forms of pleating creating different patterns, pleat sizes, edging and shapes. Sometimes the top and bottom of the side of the shade is stitched into place creating flat pleats, while the pleats may also proceed all the way to the top and bottom creating a sawtooth edge. Pleats can form straight lines or fan designs.

Reflector Bowl - An open-top bowl usually in the shape of a hemisphere and often made of frosted, opaque or colored glass. It sits on the socket along with the harp and causes the light to be deflected, diffused and reflected upwards. The glass is usually frosted/opaque to diffuse the light through the sides of the shade and to direct most of the light toward the ceiling for indirect lighting. It also disguises the bright center of the light bulb to reduce glare and present a more `even` light. Ridges on the reflector spider fitter allows the top of the shade be centered over the bowl and kept from slipping. Reflector bowls usually come with the lamp base.

Riser - A small metal cylinder used to raise the shade. Usually 1-2”, a riser screws in to the top of the harp and the shade sits on the riser and the finial screws on top of the riser. Risers are an alternative to changing the harp to properly fit your shade.

Scalloped - The variegated contour of the top and/or bottom edge of a lamp shade. The shape of the scallop suggests the shade material is draped and hanging. Scalloped edges are often offset by fancy trims, tassles and beads.

Shantung - A heavy lamp shade fabric with a rough nubby surface, made of spun wild silk, rayon or cotton. Non-silk shantung is intended to be an imitation of silk.

Slant Height - The measurement from the outermost tip of the top edge of a lamp shade, to the outermost tip of the bottom edge, on a diagonal and in a straight line. We use the slant height to describe the `height` (length of the side) of the shade. The slant height is easily measured outside the shade, even when the shade is installed, and should be measured in a straight line regardless of any curvature in the shape of the shade. Bell shades are just as easily measured, measuring in a straight line from top to bottom, ignoring the curved surface.

Since most shades do not have vertical sides, it is difficult to get an accurate vertical measurement, usually requires the shade to be removed from the lamp. It is easier and more intuitive to measure the outside of the shade on the slant from top to bottom.

Socket - Metal receptical at the top of the lamp base that holds the bulb and usually contains the switch. A slip UNO fitter or a harp generally sits beneath the socket.

Square/Rectangular/Hexagonal/Oval Shades - The shape of a lamp shade when viewed from above or below is typically a circle, but can be other shapes. Oval shades are popular and are wider than they are deep, requiring two diameter measurements for both the top and the bottom to describe their shape. An oval shade adds an extra dimension to your lamp. Shades are also found with square perimeters, rectangles, hexagons, indented/cut-corners and many other styles.

Trim - The way that a lampshade is finished and the surface contained around the top and bottom edges of the shade. The trim creates a more pleasing profile, conceals the edges of the main shade materials, highlights the shape of the shade and buffers the edges of the shade against knocks or damage. The trim also hides the metal frame of the lampshade which runs around the edges of the shade. Some shades such as certain types of pleated shades may not have any trim at all, to show off their jagged edges.

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How to Measure Fitters Drops Bulb-Heat Buying Tips Glossary Harps Browse Lampshades

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